Rose-Moreno: The Fundamental Values

So you have now heard my 32 year life-story over three ‘prologues’; I tried to keep it as concise as possible, but then my journalistic genes takeover, and I do get quite into my story-telling.  I happily welcome any constructive criticism, after-all the aim is to keep you engaged in the development of Rose-Moreno and not over-indulge my writing ego. But, with a gigantic and every increasing ocean of amazing, and also contrived brands, it is more important than ever to tell your personal story, what makes your brand special, how it is going to compliment our world rather than destroy it and deserve a place in your life. 

Anyway, just to briefly touch on some of the key reasons expressed in the previous blog posts that have brought me to take this new path, being slightly holistic about it, what feels like my ‘life’s calling’.

• I was born into it, “inheriting… two wonderfully contrasting cultures – Mexico, steeped in ancient-history... and vibrant folklore; and England, it’s progressive multi-cultural outlook, its love of the arts and forward-thinking design. How could I not want to bring these two worlds together?”
• As I travelled through Mexico as a kid with my parents “I became fixated with the ethnic textiles... The incredible sense of colour... The intricate patterns and symbols...deep down a little light was lit, I did not know how at the time, but one day I would engage more with this world.”
• And my gradually soul-sapping experience inthe fashion industry, from high-fashion to high-street. It was like being on self-destruct mode on a daily basis- many of the women around me, barely in their 40s were a worrying reflection of what I did not want to become- haggered and bitter.  I don’t think I am exaggerating, I think a lot of fashion people can relate to this summary, unless you (they) are lucky enough to have fallen in with a sane boss and a conscientious system. Being part of the corporate grind, the cliché saying ‘chewed up and spat out’ is so much a reality. Churning out endless product, to meet demand or create demand? -Both!  Feeling increasingly uncreative by controlled, monotonous and repetitive sources of inspiration.
• The lack of genuine conviction behind any ‘sustainable’ initiative-conviction would only kick-in once it was deemed financially profitable and a worthy marketing message.  The lack of conscience with which one unintentionally ends up working within these establishments, to fight another day, it is a fight. The impact that every one of my time-squandered and therefore minimally-scrutinised decisions had on the supply-chain and the environment, including my personal well-being. Whatever it took and takes to protect the fattening piggy-bank. 

This has consciously and sub-consciously re-defined my personal vision, my boundaries, my aspirations and my values. I still battle with my auto-pilot which often comes on, I was indoctrinated into always wanting the next best and beautiful thing, urgently, it is hard to turn-off. Actually, I think it is a normal part of the human condition to always want to be experiencing improvement, it is why we work hard and strive, it keeps the world’s heart beating, but I suppose it is the pace and quality of this which makes the difference. And, my hard-learnt lessons (in and out of the industry) are tipping the balance, there is now an opinionated mini-me constantly sitting on my shoulder and nattering, challenging my every decision, which I cannot get rid of. This is not to say that I am necessarily going to get it right, I will stumble on my own hypocrisies at times, but at least the intention is there and I will be trying my damned hardest to get it right as I develop this project and define its vision.

Ultimately, I still aim to make beautiful clothes, but with a soul, with a story behind them, a story which has involved a cultural and creative dialogue between it’s various creators- a meeting of different minds and experiences, a genuine collaboration, supporting their livelihoods (mine included),prospering and putting a long-lasting smile on our faces- creator and customers’. 

So, in what ways I am already putting this in practice?

Transparency/Honesty

Since the very beginning, researching and meeting potential artisans, I have practiced transparency, I have been very honest with the artisans about the project, who I am and in what position I am in as a sole-designer/business start-up. I have not made any misleading claims or promises of great productions and guaranteed sales, as so many feel pressured to do to gain the artisan’s loyalty. Honesty is so important when establishing these relationships and the humility with which one presents themselves to the indigenous artisan community is soon appreciated- any misleadings will soon show. 

Getting to know the artisans, a recent visit to
Yoli & Xunca Hernandez
of Mujeres Sembrando La Vida Cooperative.

Whilst getting to know the artisans, I have not just asked about the price and capacity of their work, but their aspirations and their concerns relating to their craft and their communities, the social impacts that commercialising their ancestral techniques can have and how they would like to take control of it. We have been having an interesting dialogue about it, between designer and artisan, trying to find a common ground that we are both comfortable with and negotiating the conditions under which both sides will happily work. This will be an on-going conversation, as it is an evolving subject in the artisan world, especially relevant now with increasing campaigns to defeat large-brand plagiarism of global ethnic design, recognising their intellectual property rights. 

Quality & longevity of garment - design and fabric

As I define the brand’s aesthetic, I will constantly be asking myself if I feel the design has longevity, and not only to fulfill a temporary whim, quickly losing loyalty and discarded. I will strive to ensure the quality of the fabrics and that they stand the test of time, wearing with such character that the owner’s bond with the piece will deepen.  I will endeavour to make versatile pieces that can be worn and transition with ease through different occasions.  This will take time to perfect, as it is down to so many factors not all within one’s control when starting out- the yarn quality, the weaver’s differing experience, the washing indications that have to be trialled over some time, weaving techniques that have to be practiced to improve the fabric’s resistance and so much more. 

Made-in-Mexico,  nurturing the country's talent

Rose-Moreno will champion ‘Made-in-Mexico’, with the pride of a ‘Made-in-Italy’ label.  In a country with a government that people can very rarely rely on, continual corruption, a prejudice class-system and massive disparity between rich and poor (poverty dominating); however, a country that has so much potential, of such diverse landscapes, passionate people, hard-working and creative, it is such a tragedy that Mexicans (and other Latinos) are commonly forced to travel far from home in dangerous situations, in order to seek a ‘better life’ - which equals putting a basic meal on the table, let-alone basic health-care, education or solid employment opportunities. I want to be a part of an alternative system, along with the many wonderful, independent organisations and small business that have the right attitude and are building the right infrastructure, to nurture what we have here in the country and provide people with evident reasons to stay in the country and prosper.  Hopefully Rose-Moreno will provide work and training opportunities where it is lacking, with a humanistic approach, encouraging personal growth, and fulfilling personal aspirations. I hope to show young Mexicans that when correctly applied, the fashion industry can provide an exciting, enriching and sustainable career at different levels.  These are my aspirations for the brand, but will of course take time to implement in its entirety, it will require a whole support-system, which will take time to establish.

Seamstress at the workshop 'Taller Colectivo de Innovación'
A workshop in Chiapas training youths and young women
whom otherwise could get involved in more risky jobs.

The incredible talent of Gladys Martinez who
finishes a hand-spun silk  rebozo.

Environmentally conscious.

The ecological aspect of my work will also take a long time to get right, and will be a step-by-step evolution, but the intention is 1000% there.  There are issues far bigger than me, that will require many comrades to battle. The near-extinct production of organic cotton in Mexico is one issue; once a nationwide crop (up until approximately 50 years ago with industrialisation),the country now relies on imports from the US, Guatemala and India. In this case it is hard to trace the material’s origins and processes, and due to Mexico’s relatively poor market, imports of organic cotton are out of the question for the mass-market.  I am exploring the possibility of working with various non-profit organisations in pursuing an organic Mexican-cotton initiative; I have already written to various organisations, including the Swiss corporation C&A which appears to be funding research into this very subject- however, I am yet to hear back! 

Natural-dye ingredients "yellow flower" and "añil"

It is great the Mexico has several large-scale yarn manufacturers(spinning and dying from imported raw material), providing the large domestic market and creating a lot of employment. However, the industrial chemical-dyed yarns by these companies has completely usurped the ancient tradition of hand-spun and hand-dyed natural yarns, a very lengthy process.  The indigenous communities have abandoned it for the cheap, quick and easy, and also the much wider range of colours.  Meanwhile, it is being revived by young international artisans and designers on an eco-mission, and equally makes for Instagram picture-perfection. This poses the question about how serious this new generation of natural-dyers are, or if this is just going to be a passing trend. There are some people who I strongly believe in, such as the textile-designer, Maria Romero of Tintoreria Project (Mex/NYC), who is experimenting and documenting her natural-dye developments, applying it to product in innovative ways, and making it ‘cool’ and accessible to her increasing audience. 

Wool hanging after being natural-dyed

Natural-dye colours

I will strive to work with as many harm-free trims, natural fibers, and natural-dyes as possible– not only for the environmental well-being, protecting tradition and providing local employment, but also because the colours are so very beautiful and unique.  However, you also have to take into consideration the much lengthier and costly process (ten-times the industrial yarn price), meaning the finished product is very expensive and limits it’s accessibility. I don’t want my brand to become totally elitist and off-limits (though artisanal, correctly-remunerated product is never going to be cheap, inevitably). So, until I figure out a way along with the artisans to find a happy middle-ground, my use of natural-dyes will be dedicated to ‘limited edition’ pieces. 

There is also the issue of dependence on what nature wishes to offer seasonally (production fluctuates, especially with the climate changes), and natural dying still uses a lot of water. Also, the colour-fastness of natural dyes is not reliable, colours will fade with time, you will always get colour irregularities, and no two batches are ever same, in most cases. However, this can also be considered the beauty of the process, that every piece will be unique with its own colour nuances and will gain character with wear. But not all potential customers will be convinced. 

There is also the matter of material waste, from cutting the garments. This too is something that I am seeking to minimise. There is the whole concept of Zero-Waste pattern cutting, which I would like to apply wherever possible. The traditional Mexican gown, the ‘Huipil’ is Zero-Waste pattern-cutting in its purest form, literally straight lengths of fabric stitched together leaving openings for the head and arms- but let’s leave that design with the indigenous communities, ‘kaftans’ have been done to death by contemporary brands and I rather offer something different (putting my designer head to work), the fabric being the soul of the garment.  So, I will not be able to avoid off-cuttings, but from these I aim to do some interesting projects. The brand Ace & Jig sets a great example, using its fabric-waste to create further product or artworks, collaborating with artists and even with their customers.  It has a lovely sentiment and extends the life of the fabrics. 

Slow-Fashion / Conscious Fashion

Slow fashion can mean many things. In my case, it will mean to make rational thought-through decisions (as much as possible) that work with the natural flow of things, obviously steered with a certain control and order. This in-turn will mean that less resources will be wasted, and that less pressure will be placed on the artisans and sew-machinists. Slow-fashion will also refer to the time taken to converse with those involved, listening to them throughout the process, getting to know them and respecting them as human-beings and not just cogs in the wheel. Slow-fashion will mean flexibility, adapting to the reality as it unfolds, accepting that things may not be possible exactly as I had envisioned, and not being hard-headed in order to get what I want. Rather, be willing to take new directions and get creative in the moment, for example, if a new yarn is not suitable for the loom, or a design is too difficult to execute, or if some artisans were to become too unwell to work. 

So, this so far is what I am working hard towards, step-by-step. The concept may be one of slow-fashion, but that does not equate to sitting back and putting my feet up, or that it is easy- in fact it is very hard, it is challenging- once you bring ethics into it and a true desire to do things the right way, you stumble across many hurdles, constantly questioning your next step, it definitely makes the road a lot more bumpy. Plus, if this is to be a sustainable business, reality will dictate – things will have to keep a steady pace and a certain pressure applied. But the point is that the pressure must never reach the point where it abuses or takes a negative toll on those involved. There is a much longer list of things I want to do with this business over the long-term, however not only will I overwhelm you all, but myself too. Let’s just get this off the ground with its fundamental values. 

Slow processes - winding the spindles by hand.